So here are some stockings that I made for a girl on base. She donated me some uniforms to recycle (which was kinda cool anyway cause it gave some authenticity to the stockings). She had the name tapes printed (the BX/PX/NEX will print any word/name so long as it isn't offensive, I totally didn't know that) at the BX.
Alright here we go.
ESTIMATED COMPLETED TIME: (A lifetime isn't long enough. Lol) Once the material has been separated and you find the areas that are most usable or you're using printed fabric, the time is about 45 minutes to an hour. (If you're choosing to recycle the uniforms and "rip" apart the seams, be prepared to spend about 4 hours per each one.)
ESTIMATED COST: $5-$10 per stocking (if you're recycling the uniforms) anywhere from $35+ if you're buying the printed material.
THINGS YOU'LL NEED:
Material or recycled uniform
Name tapes
I would highly encourage a sewing machine since the fabric is thick.
Scissors
Pins
(Patience, and lots of it!)
1. If recycling uniforms separate all the seams to include removing the pockets (trying to keep them in shape as much as possible, if you can imagine just lifting the pocket off the shirt, that's how you want it to come off). Remember to IRON the pieces after you've separated them. (I'm not an ironer when it comes to sewing things, but this really needs to be done. Most uniforms will have creases in the arm sleeves and if you're using that part (which I HAD to, do get every bit of fabric I could) you'll want the pieces as flat as possible.)
2. If you're using fabric, just go straight for cutting out the shape of the stocking you want. (Remember to turn it backwards for the opposite side. Also, you will need to leave a seam allowance of 1/4 to 1/2 inch so add about an inch of width the size you wanted.)
3. Once you have your shapes cut out put them together just to make sure they fit each other (you're not sewing them together here, just a "dry fit"). If they fit, you need to decide which way you're going to hang them. "J" or "L" Whatever side you want to be your front, you'll sew the pocket to it. If you want the flap to lift up, only sew the top of the pocket down and up the sides of the pocket (though you will need to sew a 1/8 inch across the pocket so it doesn't separate), if it isn't going to be a functional pocket sew around the whole thing (not forgetting underneath of the flap).
4. Line up the name tap. I personally feel that it is easier to cut off the excess, but if you want to tuck it under and sew through it, go ahead. Once you have the name centered, sew it on.
5. Turn the pieces inside out to where the print is on the inside. Pin in place remembering to leave the seam allowance. You may have to play with the way you want it to look. You can see that not one of the three look the same as far as shape goes.
6. Sew the pieces together. Slow and steady here folks.
7. Turn it right side out. In order to get your toe out, you may need to use the eraser side of a pencil to guide it out. You now have your basic stocking. YAY!
8. The cuff.... oh.... I hate the cuff. Not the way it looks, but the sheer involvement of it! I'm sure there is an easier way, but these were my first (and probably last) attempt at making stockings at all. I took a piece of fabric and laid it on the stocking until I found the length I wanted. Then I wrapped it around the stocking to make sure it would go all the way around (by this time I was running low on fabric). You'll be sewing this to the top so you need to make sure to add a good 2 inches to the length so that it will fold over the top. (The cuff does hide all the inside mess since these were not lined.) It is slightly easier to sew if you make what will be the top of the cuff (inside of the stocking part) not as wide (only slightly smaller though maybe 1/4 inch less wide). It would look kind of like this / \ instead of | |. If that makes sense.
9. Sew the seems together for the cuff (the part where the ends of the fabric meet on the extra piece of fabric, you're not attaching it to the stocking just yet.) inside out.
10. Leave the cuff inside out so that when you attach it to the stocking the printed side will be the cuff and not the underside. Since this is going to be the top of the stocking, you'll want to fold down about 1/4 inch underneath (this will be your seam so it isn't too ugly inside). Once you've folded the seam down, pin it in place. Your stocking should have a 80's "Kid in Play" type "hairdo" now. I like to line the seam from the cuff and the seam on the stocking up so it isn't quite as noticeable.
11. Sew the cuff onto the stocking. Once your done sewing, turn the cuff down. If you've left enough seam allowance, all you should see is the cuff at the top no messy lines.
12. Now, you need something to hang it with. This part is a little frustrating too. You don't want your hook to be too wide cause it will make it hard to fit on stocking holders or command hooks, but the skinnier the hook, the harder it is to turn it right side out again. If you don't mind seeing the little stitches on the hook, just fold a 3-5 inch long piece of fabric down the middle (so it will still be 3-5 inches, just skinnier) and sew it "closed". If you don't want to see the stitchings (and these weren't mine, so I didn't want to see it) take that same piece of fabric and fold it in half longways inside out and stitch it "closed." In order to flip the hook right side out, you'll need to use something (a knitting needle works good if you have one of those on hand, if not a pencil is ok, but break off the lead, leaving the point intact.) to push it through. You'll flip your cuff back up at this point (so as not to sew the hook through the cuff). Pin the hook to where you want it on your stocking and stitch it straight onto the "seam". I did a row across and back-stitched and back across three times to ensure that the hook would not come apart if something heavy was placed inside. Turn the cuff back down and finally, YOU'RE DONE!!!
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